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Making-of

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What Happens Before the Camera Turns On

A fitting is where a campaign either comes together or reveals what is not working.

a man standing in front of a wall in a room

Julien Morel

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Creative Consultant

artist model wearing a costume

The fitting room is where campaigns become honest. Everything that looks correct on a mood board, in a brief, in a casting decision, gets tested against the physical reality of a body in a garment under conditions that approximate, if imperfectly, what the camera will eventually see.

Most of the time, fittings confirm what was planned. Occasionally, they contradict it. The teams that are worth working with treat both outcomes as useful information. The teams that are not worth working with treat contradiction as a problem to be minimized rather than a signal to be read.

Laurent has been present at enough fittings across enough productions to have a clear understanding of what they reveal and how that information should be used.

What a fitting actually tests

The obvious function of a fitting is to establish that garments are the correct size and require minimal alteration. This is necessary but insufficient as a description of what a fitting is for.

A fitting tests the relationship between a specific body and a specific garment in motion and at rest. It tests whether the proportional logic of the piece reads as the designer intended or requires modification. It tests whether the model's physical presence serves the garment's construction or creates tension with it. It tests whether the stylist's intentions for the look translate from concept to cloth.

These are not small questions. They are the creative questions the camera will ask on shooting day, asked in advance under conditions where the answers can still be changed.

What we observe in the models we represent

The distinction between a model who uses a fitting well and one who merely passes through it is visible and significant. A model who uses a fitting well is doing several things simultaneously: she is understanding the construction of each piece, noting how it responds to movement, identifying where it needs physical support, and building a vocabulary for working with that specific garment before she encounters it under the pressure of a production day.

Astrid Holm, who has attended more fittings than most people in the industry have attended days of work, describes the process in terms that reflect exactly this approach. She treats a fitting as a study session. She leaves knowing the clothes.

The stylist relationship

A fitting is also where the working relationship between model and stylist is established for a production. The quality of that relationship has a direct and measurable effect on the imagery. A model and stylist who have developed trust and communication during a fitting work faster, more efficiently, and with greater creative flexibility on shooting day.

Laurent actively encourages the models we represent to invest in fitting time as creative time rather than administrative time. The difference in final image quality between a model who was present in the fitting room and one who was merely physically there is consistently visible in the work.

On the brands that get this right

The brands that produce consistently exceptional campaign imagery are almost universally the ones that treat the fitting as a creative meeting rather than a logistical checkpoint. They involve the photographer where possible. They allow time for the model to move in the clothes, not just stand in them. They make adjustments based on what they see rather than what was planned.

The brands that produce imagery that looks almost right, imagery that has all the correct elements and still fails to cohere, are frequently the ones that treated the fitting as a box to check. The images that result look exactly like what happens when the body and the garment meet for the first time on shooting day: functional, technically adequate, and entirely without depth.

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